Archive for November 6th, 2008

Took the Plunge

After a year of toiling on The Club of bicycles and months of fretting over what step to take next, I finally purchased a used road bicycle that is as good as new to me!

Despite how much I enjoyed my role as the clown and caboose of KCTC, I wanted to feel what it was like to fly with the big boys. I needed a road bike. No amount of upgrades was going to get it done on my trusty, but bulky, pedaling machine.

The Bike Shops suggested buying a brand new bicycle from them, which would have run me about a month’s pay all told. That’s a huge leap into an unknown world, and I didn’t and still don’t even know if I want to be a part of it enough to warrant spending that much money.

I couldn’t get a trial ride from them as they insisted they didn’t have any bikes in my size in stock. One person in KCTC is taller than me and has longer legs, and he got to test out a few bikes. I pointed that out to the Bike Shops, but I think my foreignness held too strong in their perception of my size.

This happens a lot in Japan. I am by no means the biggest person in town, nor am I the biggest person that anyone has ever seen. I will say that it is very uncommon to see a Japanese person who has my combination of height and girth, but many men eclipse me in one area or the other. I am not the tallest or heaviest person on staff at my school, nor would I be if I put on a school uniform and ran with the students.

However, on first meeting people and almost every time the topic of sizing comes up, the words “Mac, you’re huge” are not far behind. There is a tone of bewilderment and exasperation in their voices, such that it becomes, “Mac, you’re impossibly huge and I’m sure I’ve never seen anything in your size.”

“White foreigner” almost certainly equals “big, huge ape” in Japanese common sense. This perception is convenient sometimes and often works in my favor, but annoys me just as often. If I had to quantify it, I’d say it adds a couple inches, ten to fifteen pounds, and a handful of decibels to what is actually there when I interact with a Japanese person that I don’t know well. It would probably make an olfactometer go crazy, too.

Long story short, I couldn’t test ride something on which I was being asked to spend hundreds of thousands of yen. That didn’t sit well with me and added loads of time to the decision-making process. I was in the Bike Shop at least once a week asking about this and that as well as emailing biker friends and scouring the Internet for deals.

I knew that the Bike Shops wouldn’t be happy if I didn’t buy from them, and on top of that that they would not work on whatever bike I bought from somewhere else. I had seen them shun a girl who used to enjoy riding with KCTC over buying a bike online, and other riders have whispered about getting substandard effort from Mr. Bike Shop on non-Bike Shop bicycles.

They did their best to describe the experience of riding a road bike to me, and that was all I had to go on from everyone else I asked as well.

At the end of September, I decided that remaining loyal to the Bike Shops was worth the money and hassle that I would have saved acquiring the bike some other way. I called Mrs. Bike Shop and asked her to put in an order for one of the new line of Trek 2.1 bicycles.

She was away from the Shop and couldn’t remember the exact colors in the catalog, nor could I. She wanted to make certain that I got the right one, so she told me to call again a few days later when she had the magazine in front of her.

Forgetting the colors turned out to be an extremely lucky oversight for me and an equally unfortunate development for the Bike Shops.

The very next day after the phone call, a fellow from Kochi Technical College came to my high school and gave a short introductory course for the IT majors who were thinking about going to Kochi Tech. He was the Technological English lecturer, a tall, skinny American from Connecticut who had lived in Kochi for the past five years.

I had heard his name from a few Chinese students that I know at Kochi Tech, and I remembered that one of them said that he was a crazy biker. Sure enough, the first slide in his presentation showed him on a mountain bike with mud all over his body and face. He seemed nice enough, so I asked him about cycling after the presentation.

It just so happened that he was an inch shorter than me with legs about the same length, and that his wife had been telling him to get rid of an old road bike that he kept in their shed. He had bought a sleek, new racer the previous year and was hanging onto the old one for its sentimental value.

He invited me to come out for a ride with him, so I finally got to take the test ride that I had so craved while agonizing over the decision.

He took me up into mountains that were new territory for me, all the way up to a road and a peak that I didn’t know existed. I had considered exploring that area before, but the map made it look like there were no roads there. There was good reason for that.

Gradients of 15% and 16% on both the uphill and downhill runs were one reason. On a road (as opposed to a dirt trail), that means either pedaling so hard that you can’t see or think straight, or hurtling downhill so fast that you’d better be wearing brown bike shorts to save yourself some embarrassment at the bottom.

We polished off the mountain in a couple hours and some change, although I was sure at least three times during the downhill stretch that my final words would be either “Holy mackerel!” or “Oh shit!” I’ve got to work on making something more meaningful come out when faced with a chance of death, something like the secret to my delicious French toast or the cure for the common cold.

In all seriousness, I didn’t know that it was possible to go that fast on a bicycle. Lecturer said that he had reached 50 MPH on that mountain in the past. I was spooked because of the sheer speed and also because I didn’t have a very good grip on the brakes as Lecturer’s hands belonged in a different position on the handlebars than did mine.

I logged the harrowing experience and decided that I wanted some more. Lecturer graciously lent me the bike for a few more test rides and I determined which parts I would need to replace. Eventually, I bought the bike for substantially less than the brand new one.

True to the rumors, Mr. Bike Shop would hardly touch the used bike. I brought it by the Shop for a diagnostic, and he looked at it over the glasses perched on his nose with the Japanese equivalent of a “harrumph!” He detailed parts that needed to be replaced, and I dutifully bought each and every one from the Shop.

However, I was left on my own to make the repairs. I consider myself a pretty clever guy with good small motor skills, but I lack common sense when it comes to putting things together and understanding what makes them work. I am a lock to break something that only an idiot would break, cut or glue something in the incorrect place, or put something on backwards.

My luck continued. A middle-aged guy in my neighborhood passes by every now and then on a variety of bicycles and electric scooters, and he always heaves a hearty hello in my direction. I thought he was just a cheerful gentleman, but it turns out that he knew who I was and used to ride with KCTC.

I was embarrassed to find that it was he who phoned ahead and told Mrs. Bike Shop about the Jari and Doro incident, and that he had even been one of the six dudes in the tub at the mountain hot spring in the winter.

He runs a wholesale rice shop down the street from my apartment and is a certified bicycle nut. If it has two wheels, he’s on it. I’d wager that he has more bikes than anyone in town outside the Bike Shops. They hang from the ceiling and peek out from behind 40-pound bushels of rice in his crowded little warehouse, and I think he spends more time playing with bike parts and riding around the neighborhood than he does selling rice.

I took the used bike by Rice Man’s place before I bought it, and his eyes lit up like birthday candles when I told him about it. He stopped me mid-sentence and said, “Mac, if you don’t buy this thing, then I will! Just think of what I could do with this part, with that part . . .” He was all but drooling over it!

He graciously supervised my installation of new handlebars, shifter and brake cables, tires, and pedals, even jumping in and lending a hand when I was about to mess something up. He moved so quickly and with so much energy and urgency, and he grunted and exhaled noisily along with twists of the Allen wrench and screwdriver.

And so it is done. I have joined the rest of the pack and taken another step in the biking world. I am so thankful for the experience and that I was able to meet two amazing men, find a bike within my budget, and still demonstrate some loyalty to the Bike Shops at the same time.

Here she is.

Keys

I went to a Halloween party last Friday night dressed as a baseball player. I had authentic gear from the team I work for, so the other guests were impressed and thought it was cute that I was such a rabid fan.

However, I couldn’t help but think that one disadvantage to moving abroad is that you don’t have ready access to an attic or a place to store everything that you grew up with.

I mean, if I was living on the West Coast, I’m sure that I would have some wigs, a false beard, an Austin Powers mask, and that rubber cast that I wore on my arm one day and got everyone to sign and worry over in high school.

Yes, I’m sure that some of those things would be tucked away somewhere convenient.

Anyhow, I went to the party as a ballplayer and hosted two friends for the night at home. I woke up the next day, saw them off, and suited up for a bike ride, but I couldn’t find my keys anywhere. Since I hadn’t locked up my bike, I was still able to go for a ride, so I left the apartment unlocked and took off, thinking that I would find them later.

Funny how missing keys would be a huge, drop-everything-and-fix-it-now problem in the States but not at all here. I wasn’t worried at all. I have stuff that I would not like stolen, but I never worry about it. I don’t lock my door half the time, which is why I can’t be 100% certain that I even had my keys with me Friday night.

The more eyes are around, the more people will act like they are “supposed” to in countryside Japan. That means leaving things as you found them, properly disposing of trash, and not stealing people’s stuff, among other things.

There are a lot of discarded household electronics, vehicles, and other trash in the mountains, but there aren’t any eyes there. In other words, I’d feel more anxious about leaving my bike, say, in the mountains with a flat tire or broken wheel, than I would leaving it in front of my apartment building in the city.

I started to worry when I couldn’t locate the keys after tearing up the apartment. I looked everywhere, including the trash, the toilet bowl, the laundry machine - no keys. I went back to the restaurants from Friday night with the same results.

I was all ready to try out lock-changing Japanese style, but then my keys fell out of a stack of baseball programs that I had lifted up and moved around at least three times in the search. It was very strange. I hadn’t touched the stack of programs or brushed them with my arm, gravity had just taken about 72 hours to do its work.

The situation reminded me of a story from not so long ago. What do you know? Another tale from Fukushima . . .

I was riding home from work a few Fridays ago when my keys fell out of the cell phone pocket on my backpack and onto the road. I was on a big hill, so I had to trudge back up to get them. Before I could reach them, however, a car ran them over and bent ‘em all up.

It figured that they wouldn’t work in the lock on my apartment door, but I had to try. My last class on Fridays is located across town, but it’s only one class in that location, so I usually leave whatever I don’t need at home. After trying to jam my keys into the lock to no avail, it slowly came to me that I was totally screwed.

My cell phone, wallet, and money were all inside the apartment.

Amazingly, I didn’t feel the need to hurl the useless keys to the ground as would be my expected reaction to such misfortune. I thought about calling the boss, but they don’t like me very much because they know I’m quitting, and I don’t want to owe them anything more than I have to, so I put that option next to sleeping in the park all weekend.

I thought about calling a friend, but all of my phone numbers are in my phone and I don’t have any of them memorized, so that wasn’t an option. Amazing, huh? I used to be super phone-number guy, but then I joined the human race and got a cell phone.

It was Friday night and almost 9 p.m., and they roll up the sidewalks very early here, so I had to get moving if I didn’t want to sleep at the foot of a Japanese shrine all weekend. I went to Yama-chan, and I hadn’t been there since July because of how expensive it is. The Mama-san told me that there was a key-fixing place a few towns away and that they were open until 11.

I wasn’t sure if it was going to work, but it was worth a shot. First of all, I had no money and no way to get any (bank card was in my wallet). I had no identification, so if they had any doubts as to how I got my hands on those keys, I wouldn’t get them copied. And, I couldn’t call anyone to vouch for me if the above situation happened.

I was literally nobody from nowhere. And that’s a scary thing when you add to it a foreign language and culture.

Thankfully, the lady at the key place took my mangled key and ground it up, and did it for no charge! I asked how much it cost, and she said “It’s a service” in Japanese. That was a relief, because I was prepared to leave everything I had, including my clothes, as collateral if I was required to pay.

This was a great experience because I got something done quickly and exactly the way I wanted it done. The way it happened even exceeded my expectations. And it was simple, when I needed it most. For all the harping I do about how difficult it is to get things done here, I’m glad that this one time it was easy.

I swelled up with pride after triumphing in the key fiasco, because they don’t teach you how to say “A car ran over my keys” in Japanese class, yet I managed to communicate that calmly and efficiently to everyone who needed to know.

I immediately started downplaying the significance of it, because what would you infer from someone waving a gnarled key in front of you and speaking in broken English? I probably could’ve done it all without saying a word.

Finally, I decided that it was indeed a great accomplishment and that I handled it well. Communication happened, there were no breakdowns, and there was a relative minimum of hand-waving.

I made the key lady and the Yama-chans American-style French Toast to thank them for their help, and presented it to them the Japanese way - apologizing profusely for inconveniencing them and saying that my paltry little gift was in no way equal to their wonderful deeds of kindness. Something like that.