Archive for January, 2009

Character Traits

One of my favorite things about Japan and Japanese is the collection of Chinese characters used in Japanese writing. They are expressive and artsy, yet each is orderly and confined to a uniform space. They can flow freely across a poster, stand alone on a road sign, or cram themselves into impossibly small spaces on a page.

To a person familiar with the nuts and bolts, many of them scream out their meaning while others hide it behind a few deceptively simple strokes. To me, a Japanese learner from the age of 18, they signify events in my life and conjure up people, places, and sensations locked deep within.

Take, for example, the word for “league.” I cannot forget where I learned that word and what was going on in my life at the time.

I was sitting outside Kagami-machi Station as I did every Friday afternoon in 2005 before the dreaded English conversation classes at Okanouchi Preschool. Kagami-machi was twenty minutes away from my house by train, but only one train departed per hour.

That meant that I had to sit at the station for forty minutes because the next train would make me two minutes late for the first lesson. I could have walked to the preschool early, but that would have meant playing with the kids, of whom one enjoyed spitting on adults.

So I sat at Kagami-machi Station and read comic books, which is childish but doesn’t appear so as much in Japan. I had chosen a baseball comic book series, and I learned a lot of words from it, most of them useless in real life.

One useful word, however, was “league,” and it stuck out in my mind right away because it was constructed of easy parts and simply looked like “league.”

So now, every time I see that word in the newspaper or on the Internet, my mind travels back to those sweltering summer days sitting at the station praying for God to make it quick and painless and get me to the weekend.

This happens several times a day, to the point where I could not estimate how many words have this effect on me.

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Names bring about similar feelings, especially if they belong to someone special to me.

I dated a girl from Fukushima Prefecture for over two years, and her first name was expressed by a single character with 17 strokes. The symbol on the left, which is called a character’s “radical,” means “eye.” The rest of it means “child” by itself, but when combined with the eye radical, it means “pupil” or “iris” in English.

It was a difficult character to learn to write properly, but it finally stuck in my mind one day when we were looking at an old photo album of hers. She showed me a picture of herself at five years old, dressed in a ratty, pale blue preschool uniform holding a large piece of paper with her name scrawled on it in crooked, child-like script.

Nowadays, I see the character more often in poetic reference to an eye than to a woman’s name. However, in those cases, my brain rips through three years of memories, happy and sad, and delivers me to that old apartment, sitting in front of the photo album with Hitomi looking at her picture from preschool.

It doesn’t stop there, though. The right side of the character shows up by itself in other words and is paired with other radicals. It means that I get memories of Hitomi when I see words like “bell,” “yearning,” and “child.”

I talk to Japanese people about their perception of Chinese characters and find that few of them relate to the characters the same way that I do. The Bike Shops told me that they just see words. Coach Napoleon thinks that the characters evoke some feelings but can’t come up with any examples. Coach Ken, the baseball head coach, says that words do nothing for him at all.

At the desk next to me is a part-time English teacher who spent two years in Canada and could be the best English teacher at the school if not for the hierarchy and implied unimportance of her position. Mrs. Canada (she is married) nearly jumped out of her seat when I asked her about connecting with the characters; it was as if she had finally met someone she could talk to about the memories that followed her around.

She related to me the story of a fiancée of hers years back who killed himself before their planned wedding. No warning, no note, no explanation. Mrs. Canada is forever scarred by the horrific event, but is also haunted by the two characters that the man used for his name.

We determined through talking to others that people who are otherwise and already introspective gain this extra meaning from Chinese characters, and I must say that I am shocked to find so few who do.

I am in an interesting position in that I am not a native speaker of Japanese. It makes sense that I would attach more meaning and emotion to the characters; I am effectively ten years old in terms of Japanese experience, but I have been an adult with a vivid history for most of that decade.

However, though words play tricks on my mind in English as well, suffixes, prefixes, and halves of compound words do not. That is what is going on here with the characters. They are presented in such a way that their appearance can cause a reliable, consistent reaction completely regardless of the context.

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Until recently, I struggled with one that thankfully proved to be less permanent than the others swimming around in my head. This past summer, I fell in love with a local girl that I had met the previous summer upon arriving in Kochi. I knew her well, got to see her interact with my family, and was perfectly comfortable letting go of inhibition and loving her.

She sported a single character for her name, composed of the tree radical and “spicy” or “tough” on the right side. It depicts a certain kind of tree with very rough, sturdy bark. I’ve only recognized the character since meeting her, and it’s been a woman’s name every time; it does not mean “maple” or “oak” or “pine.” Then I’d really be in trouble.

Avoiding long stories and character attacks, in late August she called things off and did it very disrespectfully, showing a selfish side that I hadn’t known. I have never been done so dirty and it still smarts from time to time.

Especially when I see that “tough” or “spicy” bit. It’s a part of “avoid,” “fence,” and “refuse.” All words on the undesirable side of things, so pleasant memories should be safe, right?

Wrong. Add a single stroke at the top and “spicy” becomes “happiness.” And not happy as in, “Hey, look, I just found ten bucks on the ground!” Happy as in lasting happiness. And the happiness character appears in the word “inform,” so it’s in the news every single day.

It took a long time for the sea of information to drown out the persistent memories of that tree with the tough bark. Happiness has finally won the battle as well, thanks to talking about this with Mrs. Canada and many other Japanese.

I enjoyed the 28-mile ride out to Tree Bark’s house on a secluded bay west of Kochi and did it twice a week while we were dating. A finger of mountainous land stretched out and surrounded the bay, and my favorite place in all of Kochi was on a bridge connecting the end of that finger to a small island facing the Pacific.

I still haven’t been back out to the bridge. I have even been taking the national highway out west instead of the back road that runs by her little town. On the return trip from Kubokawa Town at the end of November, I stopped and took pictures on the coast at a point from which I could see into the bay. I longed for another sunset at the bridge and cringed at the pain I would surely suffer as I rode through the old town that I had loved as much as I had loved the girl.

Then, my thoughts became as clear as the cloudless autumn sky and I realized that I had given that bay, that bridge, and that town to that inconsiderate woman. I had let her have control over something that she couldn’t control. I had given her ownership of all of that, and in my mind, it was stamped with that single, leathery, dessicated Chinese character.

I took the back road for the first time with KCTC last Sunday, and next time I will make it a point to head out to that special bridge. It belongs to Kochi. It belongs to me.

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I wish that these thoughts weren’t so prevalent, that I could think about that decrepit train station once in ten times I saw the word “league,” or that it was easier for me to let things go in general. Unflagging involuntary introspection seems to be one cross I will have to bear as I continue this journey through Japanese language and culture.

The sad memories are hollow, and they are dogged in their pursuit of my consciousness. If I stopped to count, I might find that they outnumber the warm, rosy memories. Studying the characters was not fun, but the frustration and fatigue of learning them were accompanied by a lasting fascination with their power and beauty.

Student Sketches

On a final exam for the last term, I asked students to translate a few phrases from Japanese to English and likewise. They did very well going into Japanese, but not so well going into English.

One of the phrases was, “Let’s meet at Kochi Station at 3:30.” That’s what I was looking for in English. A couple were painfully perfect but for the time (3:00, 2:00) which left me scratching my head, as I had put the digits 3, 3, and 0 on the test among the Japanese words.

280 students took the test and the English Department doesn’t like the Scantron machine, so I was flipping through a lot of tests. With my head in one hand, I turned to the test of Student #16 in the Electrical Engineering class.

#16 is a funny kid, and I have struggled to give him an appropriate nickname. He doesn’t have much interest in the textbook or classroom activities and spends a lot of his time dozing off, looking out the window, and twisting the nipples of any unfortunate classmates within reach.

He acts like an idiot, but he is one of the few kids at school who asks how to say things in English, what certain words mean, and about things outside Japan. He once asked me what Chinese people sound like to Americans, and he consistently comes up with anti-war slogans that he must be getting from TV or the Internet.

Anyhow, I flipped over to his test and nearly fell out of my chair laughing at his attempted translation:

Get ready for the next battle at 3:30!

I love it. The kid mailed it in for the listening part of the test and can’t even introduce himself properly in English, but he nailed this sentence. Perfect spelling and grammar. He just pulled it out of thin air.

Get ready for the next battle at 3:30!

I also love how it implies that there were battles before the one coming up at 3:30. I wondered if, in his mind, they were at least taking place at Kochi Station. After all, the conversation from which I pulled the phrase was Aya asking Steve out to lunch at the station. That much should have been clear to him as it was written in Japanese.

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Coach Napoleon has been his old self lately, scolding students for long hair, short skirts, and pink shoelaces. It’s still funny to hear him dressing them down, but it’s usually one of those three and it gets repetitive for him.

I think he enjoys getting a new challenge, and one comes up every now and then.

Last week, a student riding a motorscooter threw an aluminum can to the side of the road while he was in motion and the littering incident made its way back to school. How?

The old lady who saw him do it stopped to pick up the can and noticed the student’s wallet next to it. The goof had tossed it overboard with the can.

Coach Napoleon: So, what’s this I hear about you littering on Highway 56?

Student Goof: Excuse me, I don’t know what you’re talking about.

Coach Napoleon: Don’t lie to me, son, I’ve got sources all over town telling me they saw you toss a can off your scooter.

Student Goof: But . . .

The student froze as Coach Napoleon dangled the wallet in front of his face.

Student Goof: I-I-I . . . how . . . ?

Coach Napoleon: Act like an idiot, talk like an idiot, don’t you feel like an idiot? What a stupid thing to do, you idiot, and I caught you!

Student Goof: (stammering)

Coach Napoleon: You’re lucky you were in streetclothes or you’d be doing lots of cleaning up, on the road and at school!

After the chagrined student retired from the office, I asked Coach Napoleon to elaborate on the comment about streetclothes.

It turns out that teachers are allowed to bust students for breaking laws and school rules if they are in uniform, even if they are not on school grounds. However, if they are not in uniform, their actions fall outside of our jurisdiction.

I recalled an incident a few months ago where three students got hauled out of the Coco’s down the street for smoking in the restaurant bathroom. They had their uniform jackets on and thus paid for the crime at school.

Students are easily identifiable by their school uniforms and their ubiquitous mamachari bicycles, but they also bear school emblems on their collars and on stickers on their bicycles. I must admit that my eyes have been trained to go right to the collar when I see young students in uniform around town.

It begs the question: If you are going to smoke, shoplift, fight, loiter, gamble, drink, or create a public disturbance, why in the world would you do it while broadcasting where you go to school?

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Students have a lot more power than teachers do in Japanese schools. They sit in the same classroom all day and watch teachers scurry around between periods with all of their gear in their arms. It still burns me to I have to go back to my desk in the office and get something that I forgot for a particular lesson, something that would be sitting right on my desk in the back of an American classroom.

They basically have to get caught smoking or drinking in uniform to receive any kind of discipline. Sleeping in class and blatant disrespect of teachers is overlooked. Tussling with other students and moving freely between rooms during class time is the norm.

A biggie for me is that the students get to keep a copy of every test that I write. This shocked me at first, since I put a lot of effort into a unit test that I deemed good enough to use in subsequent years. The students take the test, turn in the answer sheet, and walk out of the room with the test in hand.

This is in the name of fairness, or so says the system here. I think it’s in the name of Japanese test-taking. When the bell rings and pencils go down, out come the electronic dictionaries and cell phones. The students check answers and look for mistakes on the test. They are ready to argue their cases on translation questions by the time I grade the tests and pass them back.

Get ready for the next battle at 3:30!

#16 actually tried to get points for “at 3:30.”

Students keep those tests and study them for succeeding midterms and finals, even though the content might be totally different. They do this to try and figure out my patterns, and they devote more energy to cracking the codes than they do to actually understanding English.

I cut up previous tests and paste them together to make review sheets, and when we go over them in class, the students make remarks about patterns and traps:

Oh, look! Three Cs in a row! Mac likes to bunch answers!

Ah, the answer on that dialogue didn’t come out until the very end, he’ll try to trick us like that!

He made us go in a circle on the map, he’ll do it again on the final!

I just shake my head and laugh. It’s an exercise in futility. In truth, I like to make these things as easy to grade as possible, so I just make words out of consecutive answers. Things like “B-A-D-C-A-B-B-A-G-E” and “B-L-D-G.” Since the answers spell out words or abbreviations in English, I know that I’m safe. I am trying my best to teach them, but I don’t think a single one of them would catch a bad cabbage.

The other teachers are very serious about it, though, and fairness comes into question often when we are reviewing my tests together.

I am not allowed to ask students to combine common sense with English, so that limits my creativity with listening dialogues. Problems where the answer isn’t explicitly said during the dialog are frowned upon, but I think that those are the best for checking ability.

I can’t try anything new on a test, it has to come out in review so that the students know to watch out for it. This is studying the test over studying the content, endorsed from the top. I got upset about it last year, but it’s one of those things I had to let go of in order to work in peace here.

There’s even a way to order the questions. I asked about making different forms of the same test to curb cheating, but I’m not allowed to rearrange the questions. The Japanese way dictates that, within any given section, the easiest questions come first and the hard ones come later. It would be too shocking to put the hardest question first and follow up with some gimmies.

Making tests is easily the thing I dislike most about this job.

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Luckily, I’m finished for the year. The seniors take their last English test next Tuesday and graduate on March 1. That five weeks in between is supposed to be for cleaning up loose ends before going off to work or, for a few, to college. Students take the odd make-up test, get a driver’s license (which is tougher for them than it is for foreigners to take the license transfer test), or cram like hell for a qualification test for whatever industry they plan to enter.

I waved goodbye to #16 and his Electrical Engineers this afternoon, and we had ten minutes to kill in the final class, so I put a high school yearbook of mine on a desk in the front of the room and told them they could have a gander if they so pleased.

Half of the class, including boys who sit there like zombies or pull the curtains over their heads and sleep every day away, leapt out of their seats and raced to the front of the room. They stuffed themselves into the smallest amount of space possible, shoulder-to-shoulder in their black uniform jackets, head-to-head with their uniform black hair.

One kid couldn’t break the circle, so he jumped up and stretched himself across the only remaining space on the top. He was enjoying the Class of 2001 without touching the ground.

Look at the size of her lips!

Damn, that guy looks tough!

That girl is a streetwalker for sure, look at that makeup!

Oh, she’s the most beautiful girl in the school, definitely! I want to go to this school!

Mac, where are you?

There were ears burning around the world.

Chain Me Up

Since acquiring a mad new machine, I’ve deftly avoided talking about and, more importantly, participating in a race of any sort.

Believe me, the KCTC members have tried:

“Mac, you should give it a try. You might set a new world record!”

“Don’t waste that talent. You should train hard and come race with us.”

“Mac, I NEED you out there, I can’t race without you!”

I’ve sidestepped the issue by pretending there was something in my ear, attending to a pressing (phony) phone call, and emptying the contents of my nose onto the pavement just as Bachelor #3 was about to get on his knees and beg me to join him.

Blowing snot rockets is right up there with tossing mikan peels and apple cores into the forest. I love the freedom of being on a bike!

As for racing, besides the fact that I am retired, I enjoy the way that a good, hard ride makes me feel and don’t think that a training schedule would add anything to that. I’m well set in that way of thinking and would only consider racing in a huge, fun, open-entry event where there’s a division for these guys.

Since words haven’t been working, a few guys decided to try a physical demonstration and I fell for it hook, line, and sinker.

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Today’s ride through the Yamakita mikan groves attracted over 20 riders, some of them new to my eyes. I’ve only been out with KCTC twice on the new bike and have hardly seen them since June, mostly because of baseball trips.

We did this trip last year, and I remembered it when we walked into a roadside shop and they dished out some wild boar stew for us to celebrate the new year. A biker remarked at my skill with chopsticks and willingness to eat Japanese food - the same guy that said the same things last January. Not three weeks ago we were hoisting Kirin Ichiban beers and eating sushi and tempura at the KCTC year-end party.

Anyway, the short, squat trees were stripped bare of mikan and I can’t say that they were all that exciting or beautiful. I can say that it got a little colder around every bend and that I nearly jumped out of my full-length tights and booties when I saw snow hiding in the northern shadow of the highest pass.

The other bikers were rightfully ho-hum about the snow. We would go on to encounter long stretches of frozen road going uphill, and I am surprised that only two bikers fell and that we made it through without chains. I am turning around and going home the next time there is any indication of icy conditions.

The climb was painstaking and scary, and we had to wait quite awhile for everyone to finish and find the right way. We finally got to the sunny side of the mountain and that’s where the fun started.

We were like birds unclipped, dogs unleashed, wild boars unstewed. We had a little more climbing to do, but the leaders got faster and faster while I was stuck behind a big group in the middle. The incline seemed easy enough, so I separated from the middle and caught up with the leaders.

On and on they pressed, sprinting faster and faster upwards. Clouds of white breath poured from their mouths and nostrils, and each rider that I overtook was panting harder than the last.

I sneaked in behind the three leaders, clambering up the unknown slope, taking sharp corners as tightly as possible, trusting them to find rocks and cars before I did with but five or six feet of leeway. After being restrained by the cold, the snow, and the ice, it was exhilarating to throw caution to the wind and simply pedal as hard as I could.

Finally, the guys in front said, “Mac, take it away!” and did I ever. I got over the pass and zoomed down the long hill toward the coast. I’m sure that the views were other-worldly, but all I cared about was the lilting, twisting gray pavement disappearing beneath me at forty miles an hour.

The sign at the beginning of the road had informed us that we were traversing a “forest road,” which usually means lots of pebbles and rocks, slippery moss, and places where a waterfall decides that it doesn’t want to go under the road any more and takes over a whole section.

This was the most pristine stretch of asphalt in Kochi, baked to a perfect crisp by the noontime sun in a cloudless sky. I clumsily navigated the elbows and hairpins that the road threw at me, but quick glances backward showed that I wasn’t bothering any other riders. I had left them all far, far behind.

I knew that I was experiencing a moment that will represent this chapter of my life when I recall it in the future. All of my rides will melt together into a collage, but this one downhill ride after an extremely frustrating and freezing ascent will stand above all of the others.

Larry shocked me out of my euphoria by tapping me on the shoulder on a long straightaway. I let out a yelp and swerved away from him. He may very well have pulled me back onto the road; the whole thing was quite surreal.

“Mac, let me go ahead. Do what I do,” he said calmly, almost in a whisper.

He had been on my tail the whole time, so close that I couldn’t see him when I peeked over my shoulder. He went in front of me and showed me how much I have to learn when handling downhill curves.

Larry was so much better and efficient than I, but what I lost to him on the turns, I gained in momentum on the straightaways. I finally realized what 30 extra pounds will do for me and how much faster I could go with better technique.

We reached the bottom well ahead of the other riders, and Larry asked again, “So, Mac, when are you signing up to race for us?”

It may take snow and chains to keep me off the amateur circuit in Japan. That and dozens of baseball games.