Archive for September, 2009

Customer Responsibility: Epilogue

First, a review from Customer Responsibility:

My favorite Italian restaurant in Kochi, Trattoria Felice, folded up at the end of December but ten days after the makeshift forget-the-year party I arranged for my school.

It was run by one Japanese man, Mr. Felice, whose lone waitress was stunningly beautiful and pretended to be very interested in me – and I didn’t even have to tip her!

I had passed Trattoria Felice several times before and was drawn in by the Ace of Base blasting from the boom box at the bottom of the stairs…

After two or three more visits, Mr. Felice informed me of an all-you-can eat deal that he featured: an open-menu, 90-minute free-for-all for $25…we ordered dish after dish, pizza after pizza, and Mr. Felice made them all in earnest, each one savory and succulent.

This was the good stuff in an extremely personal setting made by an honestly good guy. Don’t even get me started on the gorgeous waitstaff. Nights at Trattoria Felice were part of the magic of Kochi.

I don’t know why Trattoria Felice went down. Maybe Mr. Felice won the lottery and took off to Brazil. Maybe he got tired of cooking such perfect food and needed to be challenged doing something else. Maybe he succumbed to slumping sales unrelated to his fabulous, loss-leading smorgasbord.

I need to find out what happened to Mr. Felice…and I need his waitress’ phone number in case she breaks up with her boyfriend.

I’ve taken a holiday – told the translation brokers that I am unavailable, left the baseball folks to do their thing in the city, and set aside three days to be lazy and comfortable. Of course, there’s no better time to clean house or catch up on scouting reports and videos, but afternoon naps and consecutive episodes of CSI on surfthechannel.com abound amidst the trickle of work.

I headed to the mall to get some clothes repaired and stock up on supplies, and a beautiful jewelry store clerk caught my eye as I passed on the way to the tailor’s booth. She was thanking a customer with her smooth, strangely familiar voice. I stopped and turned around to get a better look, and my heart skipped a beat as I identified the waitress from long-lost Trattoria Felice!

Her perfect, distinguished face still shone behind the makeup she had to wear at this jewelry store, and though she was wearing a drab navy blue skirt, vest, and blouse uniform, it wasn’t difficult for me to imagine the chemistry-hot babe in jeans that made Mr. Felice’s fantastic food taste even better.

I told her that I had visited City Hall, the Prefectural Tax Office, and the Department of Health and Sanitation and called the building’s landlord to try and find out what in the world had happened to Mr. Felice. She said that she too was shocked by the move but that Mr. Felice had decided to close his doors long before he actually did it.

Mr. Felice did not win the lottery. He did not get snapped up by an eccentric Argentinian businessman who needed a new personal chef. He did not take his earnings and run off to Tokyo with his waitress’ boyfriend to start a venture business, leaving her behind with the Trattoria Felice cookbook and all but sealing her fate as the future Mrs. Mac.

Mr. Felice took a job as a supermarket produce supervisor. “He got a job,” the jewelry store clerk said in a way that a parent might say their young adult son or daughter got a job. A real job.

The pressure on young people, especially men, to get a real job is very heavy in this country. It affects young boys with baseball talent, many of whom see trying their luck in organized professional baseball as a dangerous risk and opt for the more secure industrial leagues. I’m sure that Mr. Felice had compelling reasons not to continue operating Trattoria Felice, but given the jewelry store clerk’s explanation of his explanation, I suspect that some of this pressure was present in his decision.

Still, he was short-handed and didn’t charge enough for his work, and it pains me to think that that contributed to his decision to move on. The world has gained a supermarket produce supervisor and lost an amazing Italian chef. I suppose that some doors close when others open.

Derice Bannock + Derek Zoolander = Bob Sanchez

Cycling wasn’t a whole lot of fun in the weeks following my first race in June, which I will get arond to writing about at a later date. Every time I hopped on the bike, I felt like I was back in the race; my legs felt like lead and all I could think was “go faster.” Everything seemed so slow on my regular routes even though I was leaving behind my best times.

When work wasn’t gobbling me up, a very late rainy season that lasted into late July continued to pour on my plans. I had two days at home in Kochi between baseball trips at the end of July and didn’t think twice about threatening skies on the first day – I needed to ride.

I headed out with KCTC and we went west over the Yokonami Skyline, the dangerous but beautiful, winding cliff road. I heard a strange clicking noise when I switched to low gear before the climbing started, so I pulled over to the side of the road to inspect my bike.

It turned out that I would only have my big wheel going for me, but I accepted the challenge and prepared for a tough ride chasing the pack on the steep, steamy bluffs. It wasn’t raining and the road didn’t appear to be that wet, so I wasn’t taking any particular cautions and rode like I was racing against my ghost on MarioKart.

I passed the whale sign parking area and thought ahead to the toughest downhill stretch on the Skyline, including one left turn that always gave me trouble. Two-inch high rectangular cupcakes dot the thick yellow line in the middle of the road on the nearly right-angle turn, giving a cyclist only five or six feet of road to work with. Kind of like this.

I had weaved through the cupcakes once before when I hit the turn going too fast and definitely remembered to thank God that I didn’t hit any and that there weren’t any cars coming in the other direction.

This time, I was in a good spot and my was on my rear brake when I noticed something on the road surface ahead of me. It looked like a snake or a tree branch, and either way it was too big for me to run over while leaning to the left as far as I was, so I attempted to change course.

In that instant, I probably squeezed one of my brakes too hard, or maybe I ran over a wet leaf, or maybe I swerved all the way over to the slippery white line on the edge of the road. Whatever happened, I lost control of the bicycle and I was on my back facing uphill before I knew it, a tangle of arms and legs and wheels sliding down the rough road.

It’s strange what goes through my mind in moments like that. Each time I take a spill, I think about my helmet, and this time was no different. As my body decelerated from what was likely greater than 20 miles per hour, I knew my helmet would keep me safe and that I was going to survive the accident.

That didn’t stop the pavement from grinding into my left shoulder and hip and burning my skin through my clothes. It felt very much like that jarring scene from Cool Runnings where Cool Runnings falls apart and goes through like twelve turns with the bobsledders’ heads bouncing about like bobblehead dolls. It’s around 6:50.

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It was a nightmare, I just could not stop. It felt like the road had chewed through my shoulder and was beginning to work on my neck. The Skyline became a limestone-studded belt sander, and anything sticking out on my left side (ankle, knee, hip, elbow) was getting ground down relentlessly.

The eternity ended as I skidded to a stop. I began moving everything to make sure that none of it was broken and I was able to sit up and take stock of the situation. My bicycle lay in front of me, the handlebars mangled and saddle stuffing strewn across the road. I scrambled to pull everything and myself to the side of the road as I couldn’t see around the curve behind me.

I hadn’t caught up to anyone in KCTC, so nobody knew about the accident. I tried to ride but the chain was twisted every which way and the handlebars were too messed up to risk trying to make it home with little control over the bike. I dragged my bike along and limped back up the slope to the parking area in hopes of getting some cell phone reception up there.

Rain began to fall as I set the bike against a rock and scurried for cover under the tiny eaves of a shuttered ice cream stand. As I thumbed through my phone book for someone to call, I had the awful realization that everyone I’d go to in just such an emergency was on his bike in front of me. Other friends didn’t have cars or, if they did, couldn’t transport a bicycle. And my battery and signal both showed only one bar.

Finally, I got down to the Ys and reached Rice Man, who lives near me in the city and had wisely decided to stay in for the day. He said that he could come and get me but that it would take a lot of time.

Then, I called someone in my neighborhood to ask them what they’d do if they got banged up on a Sunday – many hospitals close on Sundays and most that are open charge as much as 100% extra, so I wanted to make sure that I went to the right place. I got the name of a good clinic just as the battery ran out and the phone went dead.

The rain really started to come down and I hunched underneath the short, protruding roof of the dilapidated shop. I got as close as I could to the wall, like an elementary school boy being punished during recess, and still couldn’t avoid the fat raindrops.

I held my arm out in the rain to clean it and the raindrops stung my open flesh as they oozed into the wounds. A few young couples came to the area to park and chill out with the engine running, a very popular activity in countryside Japan. Not one of them turned my way or asked if I was all right. I was just part of the scenery.

All told, I spent two of the loneliest hours of my short life with my face against that wall waiting for Rice Man. What had taken him so long was putting a bike rack on the Rice Shop van to transport the bike without having to take it apart at the scene. He came bearing convenience store sandwiches, curry and mayonnaise, which I normally wouldn’t touch but gladly accepted. He graciously took me by the Bike Shop to drop off my horse and then to the hospital to get cleaned up.

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What followed was nearly three weeks of slow recovery. I went out for authentic Korean food the very night of the accident and took the seat furthest to the left so that nobody would have to look at my arm and leg. My longest baseball trip of the year followed, and for a week I went to games with my shirt sleeve and pants rolled up with a beach sandal on the bad foot and a shiny black shoe on the other. I disinfected and changed the dressings twice daily and spent as much time naked as I could. Guess that last one isn’t so bad.

The physical pain sucked, but even more awful was the fact that I couldn’t ride. I would have jumped back on the bike the next day if it were in riding condition, but instead I waited for just over a month.

The Bike Shops let repairs stack up and actually had to pretend to close the shop to stop from getting more work. I walked into the Bike Shop during one such false closure after yet another baseball trip in late August, ready to pay up and walk away with my chariot, but they hadn’t even started working on it yet! Mrs. Bike Shop had a bunch of numbered tags in her hand and she and Mr. Bike Shop were having a draft to determine to order in which to fix the bikes.

My bike had been given #5 with a due date of September 5.

I expressed my desire, nay, desperation to ride and got that changed to #1 quick-style.

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I just started riding again last week, and I am such a mess both physically and mentally. Five straight weeks of eating out and doing stationary activities like scouting and translating have set my cardiovascular system back, and I’m as bad as Derek Zoolander at turning left.

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This is going to be the most difficult hurdle to overcome – slipping and falling was painful and expensive, and while I successfully turned left while going downhill well over a thousand times before becoming one with the road, the memory of that one turn on Yokonami Skyline haunts my consciousness and my dreams.

Riding scared is no way to ride; it’s probably more dangerous and is absolutely not as fun. The thrill of exploring new roads is too much for me at this time and I’m worried that I may never taste it in the same way again. It’s one thing to make a mistake or have a scare on an unfamiliar course, but I ate it on a road that I know and love respect.

In closing, I would like to express my disappointment with Summer 2009. It wasn’t long enough, it rained too damn much, and still manages to rain almost every time I go out! My second time out since the accident, I got stuck walking my bike down a mountain because I was too scared to ride it down in a drizzle.

Maybe I need to enter another race to take the whammy off.

Portrait of a Rocket Fighter

This is a piece about a painting of a man looking at a painting. Unfortunately, I can’t reproduce the image here, I can only tell you about it and the man who painted it.

His shoulders face the painting propped up on an easel next to the back wall of his studio. It is as if you have walked in and caught him in a moment of reflection. He is looking at you, but his attention is still on the painting.

He is wearing his room slippers; he is quite comfortable. His right arm is draped over the back of a simple chair, his left hand rests on his knee, cupped as though he is holding a ball or preparing to play the piano beautifully.

A white apron hangs from his neck, and it is stained with paint on the bottom. A palette sits on the table in the foreground, but there is no brush. It is evident that he was just sitting in his studio, studying the painting before him. A mannequin hides in the shadow of the easel.

The painting with which he is so enraptured is one of himself at age sixteen. It is 1945, and he is dressed in his earthen Japanese Navy fatigues. His shoulders are thrown back and his hands are on his hips; it is a confident pose. Heavy white gloves make his hands seem quite large in proportion to the rest of his body. The young man’s lips are pursed and his eyes look down at the painter. There is no fear in the boy’s face and there is perhaps a slight hint of duty.

The painter has the same pursed lips and his shoulders too are rolled back. His head is cocked to the side to acknowledge your intrusion into his studio. There is no trace of apology, regret, or pain on his face; his expression is simply one of acceptance. It is as if he is saying to you, “there I was.”

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Fumio Takemura was a member of the Special Attack Force, different but not completely dissimilar to the familiar kamikaze fighters. He was part of a troop that was to fly a new kind of Zero Plane called a “Rocket Fighter” in Japanese.

“The planes weren’t designed to be able to land,” Takemura recalled. “There was no landing gear, just a wooden sled on the bottom, and that made it very rough if the pilot did indeed decide to land.”

The Rocket Fighters burned what little fuel they carried quite quickly, within six minutes of taking off, in order to reach the altitude of the bulkier Allied fighter planes in a fraction of the time. From there, the assignment was to glide around the Allied aircraft, get off as many shots as possible, and if there was an opportunity, to plunge the Rocket Fighter into an enemy plane.

“Kamikaze pilots who returned were castigated and tortured,” Takemura said. “Our orders weren’t so strict, but we wouldn’t have been expected to return.”

Takemura and his troop practiced their techniques using hang gliders in the mountains of distant Nagano Prefecture. They built the camp from scratch, clearing boulders away from the top of a mountain rise, sleeping in tents, and making do without toilets or showers.

“We’d pass the time at night killing the crab lice we all had all over our bodies,” he recalled with nary a shudder. “No showers. Nothing to do. It was kinda fun after awhile.”

Takemura was to depart on “permanent deployment” in the summer of 1945, and would have done so if the Rocket Fighter’s test flights had met expectations in early July. Mitsubishi developed three Rocket Fighters, but one of the first test flights ended with the death of its pilot.

With the release of the final version of the Rocket Fighter pushed back until September, the Japanese Navy never got the chance to deploy its new weapon before the country surrendered to the Allied Forces in August 1945.

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Takemura painted this work when he was 60 years old. Kanreki, or the “turning of the calendar,” is the Japanese idea that life begins anew at age 60. Traditionally, working men retire and work on hobbies and projects that have eluded them during their forty years of six- and seven-day work weeks. It is a time to reflect, assess, and explore.

“I didn’t talk much about [the war] before my kanreki,” Takemura mused. “It was then that I decided that our stories needed to be told.”

His studio is full of picture books and model airplanes, and the resemblance to the American servicemen of that era with regard to the history of the war is striking.

Around the family dinner table, with his two daughters and their teenage children present, he recounted war tales that the women never heard when they were young. It sparked memories of talking with my grandfather, who saw action over Europe, over games of gin with my father and him in the final years of his life.

“Young people don’t know about what happened, they just don’t know,” Takemura grunted, offering a rare glimpse at his crusty side. “We’ve got to make these stories last.”

He talked of the fire-bombing of Kochi, a town that even then didn’t make it onto the map except as the small capital of the countryside prefecture. Many people, he said, fled to the Kagami River, thinking that they could escape the flames by being in the water. The oil and explosive materials inside the fire bombs floated to the surface of the river and fried them alive.

He mentioned the techniques that villagers in each of the coastal towns practiced in case the Allied troops attempted a ground attack. Each port had boats loaded with explosives ready to go out and meet Allied ships. Some civilians were given oxygen tanks and told to wait under water for smaller passenger boats to come by during an amphibian landing. They were to spring up, shoot their oxygen tanks, and blow themselves up in addition to the enemy.

He spoke of the network of tunnels and makeshift forts that still remain in the mountains of Kochi, there for additional civilian defense against an Allied invasion. Locals gave up valuable land for rice in order to build mounds of dirt, hollow them out, and park planes inside, keeping them out of sight from above.

All of this made my American high school textbook seem like it paid Japan lip service for its role in World War II. I had no inkling of fire-bombing outside of the big cities, no perception of the degree of the threat that armed civilians would have posed in a land battle, no idea that any of this spread all the way to one of the farthest corners of the country, Kochi, still Japan’s best-kept secret.

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Takemura talks seriously about his experience in the armed forces, but there is a hint of the huge smile that is always on his face when he talks about art or his family. It lights up the room whenever he enters, but dims just a bit when he speaks of the war.

Japan had been militant and imperialistic for Takemura’s entire life, teaching him that America and the Allied Forces were enemies of Japan. Suddenly, Japan was on the defense.

“They told us that our way of life would end if we lost,” Takemura recalled grimly. “We did not want Japan to become America.”

Takemura spent time training and imagining his death for the glory of his country and, on the surface, committed himself to that idea with mere weeks to go until its execution.

Then it all ended. He went back home to a broken and devastated Kochi.

“I was so relieved when it was over,” Takemura said with his trademark smile. “Just making it back to Kochi was enough for me.”

He loved to paint, and the war stole years away from his development. In his words, “wartime had no place for painting.” He sketched all of the different planes he saw during training. He painted while working as a civil servant first at the prefectural government office, then as an officer of the arts in Kochi City.

He was nearly thirty when one of his paintings was recognized and awarded for the first time, and he kept at his craft until he became the artist that everyone knows today.

Fifty years later, he has a three-story studio crammed full of paintings of old men playing Japanese chess, coastal scenes, and people and places from around Europe from his many tours there. He still teaches art classes and is active in Kochi’s art community.

The delay in the Rocket Fighter’s development and the end of World War II gave Takemura a virtually limitless bonus: the rest of his life, 64 years and counting. He bounces around from place to place, smiling, teaching, doing what he loves, and taking care of his family, whom he has kept close in Kochi. Is there any other way to live?