Archive for the 'Misc' Category

Salads and Honey

I’ve been reading a lot about food and the food industry lately, and months ago I decided to grow some food on my own once I arrived in Tokyo.

Unfortunately, I allowed a lot of great planting season go by without doing anything, but I finally got off my duff and bought seeds, soil, and planters for the balcony. I’m starting off with baby lettuce and Japanese mustard greens, called komatsuna in the native tongue.

While reading up on balcony garden techniques, I ran into this video about harvesting honey by Kirk Anderson of Backwards Beekeepers.

YouTube Preview Image

This is fun and exciting stuff! I like Anderson’s homey persona and how in touch he is with the bees as living beings and not honey-making machines.

If the seed packages are to be believed, I’m about 35 days away from enjoying a Tokyo Balcony Salad. Hopefully, I can continue making my own salads, and someday I’ll be able to glop a little backyard honey onto ‘em.

Hold Still!

On Friday nights in the winter, I model for an oil painting class downtown. Most of the students are elderly and are just looking for something to do, and, well, the model is young and just looking for something to do.

They like me because I have a beard and heavy eyebrows, and they don’t get to paint people that look like that very often.

I pose for four shifts of 25 minutes each, six times throughout February and March. I got a red envelope full of money last time, and I wonder what it’ll be this time.

Last year, I posed fully clothed in a chair with my arms on the arms of the chair like Abraham Lincoln at the Lincoln Monument. I straightened my back and stared straight ahead at a clock on the wall.

At first, it was fun finding things to think about during the shifts, and 25 is a nice number for that. I used one shift to name all 50 states and their capitals and found that I had forgotten four of them (Lansing, Michigan? Come on!).

One whole night was devoted to baseball history, and I used a minute on each year. Things got fuzzy in from the forties on back, but I had enough thoughts to get through 100 minutes. Another time, I went through the baseball franchises and meditated on their histories.

Then, I reviewed each of my 25 years of life for a minute. I was working on Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue on the piano at the time, and while that takes 16 to 17 minutes to play, if I “played” in my head and stopped and reviewed parts, it usually took 25 minutes.

I ran out of things to think about at the end, but it was an interesting exercise nonetheless.

This year, I opted for a more relaxed pose in the chair, with my left leg crossed on top of my right. I held a book in the space my crossed leg created and looked down to read it. With all of my clothes on.

Surprisingly, reading was a lot harder than staring and thinking. While I was able to read quite quickly because I had nothing else to do, it was difficult not to be able to take my eyes off the pages or move my head at all. In fact, I fell asleep a few times during my first shift of every class.

My left leg also fell asleep and became dead by the time 25 minutes was up. It had 5-minute breaks to wake up before being numbed again. Professional models are tough human beings. It takes a lot of skill, balance, and concentration to maintain a pose for a long period of time.

We tried out a few poses before settling on the reading pose, and I stood for 25 minutes during one of those tries. My hat is off to professional models, because that was excruciating. My lower body was on fire, yet I couldn’t feel any of it, and even my hand started screaming out to me from its position on my hip.

This year has been tough because it has rained every single Friday night on which we held class. I came to class in my rain suit and had to stuff my book and shoes in my pants underneath it to keep them dry on the way. That nixed my tradition of heading out to the hot springs after class, but this winter wasn’t that cold, so I didn’t miss it that much.

The WBC Tokyo Round and Spring Day (one of four wonderful Japanese national holidays denoting the first day of a new season) sucked up a couple of Fridays, so our last class is this Friday, April 3.

The forecast calls for rain and a confession of love by the thirty-something single mother who always sits in the front row, takes lots of pictures of me, and tries to speak English to me after every class.

EPILOGUE: Got a white envelope with more money in it than last year’s red envelope. The paintings all came out differently, and once again nobody chose to include the pen I stuck in the ring of my Harry Caray Holy Cow! T-shirt. I escaped before the lady had a chance to talk to me. I will not model again next winter.

Plugging Away

I’d like to say that I haven’t been adding to this site because I’ve been busy, but that wouldn’t be entirely true. I haven’t had any time to do it in the last two weeks, but I wasted all of my free time for the month or so before that.

I fell asleep at the wheel in Kochi. Baseball responsibilities were limited, but I still had the business card and the fun stories, so I talked a lot of scouting without doing much of it.

My students finished their final exams at the end of January and I had nothing to do at school for a month and a half. Rather than spend time churning out stories for the site and looking around for better work, I sat at my desk and read about baseball on the Internet all day. Not quite a waste of time, but hugely inefficient. I realized that there’s a lot of stuff out there and that nobody has time to keep up with all of it.

Rain washed out a lot of early morning bike rides, but I rolled over and went back to sleep just as many times on dry mornings. I did set some personal records on my frequent routes, but I could have gotten after it more often and more consistently.

For months now I’ve been considering trying to earn money by doing freelance translating through online agencies, and I got great tips from that older woman and other members of the translator’s association that I joined.

They gave me a website with a list of 300 agencies; all I had to do was make a cover letter, slap my resume onto an email with the letter, and copy and paste a bunch of email addresses. But every time I sat down to do it, I’d take a look at the first agency on the list and freeze up. Then I’d make myself a sandwich or start writing emails or polish my shoes.

My piano sat in my room collecting dust, and I hardly even played at school. The longer I wait to practice and get timing and technique back, the harder it will be to do.

In sum, I sat around all winter becoming one-dimensional and collecting teaching paychecks. I let everything stagnate and there were no signs of awakening until I got an unexpected call from the Good English Company.

They lost the contract to the Evil English Company. To continue teaching, I’d have to take a pay cut and spend more time sitting in the office during testing and non-school periods under Evil English’s ridiculous policies.

That was the kick in the pants that I needed. I went straight home and applied to ten translation agencies, thinking I’d hit all 300 eventually and receive a handful of responses. Nine of those first ten responded, and suddenly I was busy sending samples and filling out employment forms.

I talked out the situation with whoever would listen – I wanted to do freelance translating and scout more. I could wake up early and bike for a few hours not having to worry about being somewhere at 8:30. I could translate as much or as little as I wanted to, taking work on the road for the baseball trips. This was a chance to live an exciting, free life!

Of course, my favorite people had something else to say about that. I got on the horn with Immigration and they advised against the move, saying that I would have to prove that I could make a living translating and that I had a good reason to be in Japan to do it. I still had to keep scouting income a secret, so I faced the very real prospect of losing my privilege to live in Japan if I tried to make the jump right away.

That was fine with me, because I knew that not having the security of the teaching income would force me to fight for my life with translating. My baseball employers also said that they would find a way to keep me working in Japan, even if I had to fly in for a few long business trips every year.

I was ready to tell Evil English where to shove its contract when someone reminded me that I can’t ignore the worldwide economic situation. To be completely honest, I hear the gloom and doom but don’t really see or feel any of it. The economy is always depressed in Kochi. I don’t owe anybody any money or own anything that was valuable. I’m at least 40 years away from retirement. I live on the cheap whether times are good or bad.

I thought over all of the scenarios I could imagine and decided that it would be too risky to jump now. To be a successful freelance translator, you have to have work, and I’ve heard more translators say that the amount of work is dwindling than the other way around. On top of that, I don’t know if I’m any good at it yet!

I place a high value on being in Japan and being able to study Japanese baseball very closely. The worst-case scenario if I try to make the jump now puts me in the States on a part-time scouting salary and not much else.

Teaching for another year will be frustrating and will turn the screws on my scouting time, and I’ve got to find time to try translating to build something up for next year. However, I think the guarantee that I will be here ready to see players and show my face around baseball warrants another year at the status quo.

The baseball boss has talked about stepping up the club’s commitment to me, and I may even have a visa through an agreement with a Japanese team before the year is over, rendering all of this moot. I can always quit teaching mid-year.

So, I’m not making as bold a move as I’d like to, but I am awake and feel more like myself than I did during the winter, when I was in hibernation. I know where everyone stands and simply have to wait to see where the pieces fall and do my best at my work in the meantime.

Currency of Kochi

Kochi has finally caught up with the rest of the country, and we now go about all bundled up during the day. Being cold is not something I like doing, but there is one very good consolation – the autumn fruits and vegetables!

Shopping for food in Japan is a far cry from shopping in California as I recall it. Save a few obviously seasonal fruits like strawberries and watermelon, I seemed to be able to buy whatever I wanted to eat, pay the same price, and expect the same level of taste throughout the year.

Sure, a lot of it was imported, but that made things cheaper! The point is that I don’t remember ever having to plan my menu around the seasons or wanting to eat something but being on the wrong side of June and out of luck.

Unfortunately, eating seasonally is part of life in this country, and it has created a notable disturbance in the way that I cook and consume.

I’m an apple-a-day guy. I love to buy a big one and make the teachers at school squirm when I chomp into it, skin and all (most of them like to peel and slice apples). They are expensive, hovering around a dollar a unit, but they are dependable and delicious.

Until around May. I noticed the prices climbing up, the number in stock going down, and the taste getting worse. In mid-summer, I finally had to stop buying apples.

Years ago, I began eating apples and oranges daily to take better care of my health, but hardly a day went by that I didn’t enjoy tearing into a juicy one, regardless of the season. The apple shortage was a big blow to my comfortable existence.

Luckily, it was watermelon season, and shoot, watermelon is watermelon wherever you are. Like apples, they weren’t cheap (three or four bucks a serving), but they were delicious and hit the spot on a humid summer day.

It began to dawn on me that I was on the clock for watermelon, so I scoured the shelves for better deals and scarfed as much as I could before it went out of style. The result was that I got tired of watermelon, and seasonal depreciation and my overspeculation sucked all the fun out of it. I didn’t even enjoy the last one I ate.

The same thing happened with persimmons and with Giant Kochi Pears, which are quite tasty at their height and quite bland on the down slope.

There was a dry period throughout September. Nothing tasted good. Potatoes, greens, and even bananas weren’t any good at all. The lack of bananas shocked me; surely it’s always banana time somewhere.

I walked into several supermarkets and there were ZERO bananas on the shelves. I had never seen anything like it. Handwritten signs in each store begged, “Please, one bunch per customer at [the wholesale] price.” I guessed that perhaps there was a problem with importing them and nearly resorted to dried-up imported California oranges or my fruit fix.

Later, I discovered that some starlet had championed a “Morning Banana Diet” on TV and that people had rushed to do the same. This happens often in Japan; some scientist has enough to say about the dietary benefits of onions that he gets on TV, and all of a sudden you can’t get onions at the store.

“Japanese people are very weak when up against the media,” said Ms. Inept in a rare moment of clarity.

These booms last a month or so, and then it’s on to yogurt or mushrooms or cat food or whatever’s next. Mix these asinine ambushes in with seasonal patterns and they make for brutal shopping conditions rife with disappointment for a California boy.

Anyhow, the good apples finally showed up in stores in mid-October, and along with them mikan (tangerines, Mandarin oranges) and yuzu (citrons (?)). Yuzu are like bitter lemons, and they are useful for salad dressing, curing meat, or putting in the house entryway for their scent.

Mikan are abundant in Kochi, which has the perfect climate for several varieties of the fruit. Ponkan are my favorite by far because of their taste and because each one is a pretty good size. I usually have to have a couple mikan to feel like I’ve eaten something.

Farmers in the area allow people to harvest their own mikan for nominal fees, and almost everyone has a stock of mikan at home. I’ve got a ten-pound box sitting in my kitchen, and a buddy of mine walked off a farm last week with 40 pounds of mikan for ten bones.

Most people eat two or three a day, and they have to, because there are so many and they’re difficult to give away. It’s not hard to get a houseguest to take a bag home with him, and it’s always fun to sneak into work early and dump a box on the table in the break room, but they make their way around town and usually find their way back to where they started.

I’m lucky in that I don’t get tired of mikan and it only gets more fun when ponkan show up in January, but I am hit especially hard when they VANISH from the landscape around April. They are simply gone. Then it’s back to dried-up imported oranges.

For the next several months, though, I’m rich in the autumn currency of Kochi. I shove a few in my pockets when I go on long bike rides, and not much beats ripping one open at the top of a frigid pass, enjoying the contents, and tossing the peel on the side of the road. Natural littering is fun, right up there with putting out a campfire with your buddies.

I am, however, on the watch for an apple or mikan boom, and if I get wind of one ahead of the broadcast, I might resort to desperate measures to protect my winter wonderland.

The Legend of Mac: Return to Castle Mountain

While casually thumbing through a monthly community newsletter, I stumbled across an outdoor cooking event to be held at none other than mystical Castle Mountain.

I did eventually and successfully navigate the inner roads of Castle Mountain once, although like beating Super Mario Bros. the first time, I wasn’t sure if I could do it again.

This time, the Kochi Youth Association offered to drive twenty 15- to 30-year-olds up the mountain on a Sunday morning in October for a short hike and a lunch consisting of mountain cuisine.

The day arrived, and with it torrential rains. I called up the fellow at KYA and he said that there was a Plan B and to come on down.

I invited Noodles, an English teacher from Massachusetts who lives to the east of Kochi City and who once consumed 159 bowls of soba noodles in succession.

About 15 folks our age showed up, and we piled into two vans and headed up the crooked road that wraps around Castle Mountain. The rain was practically coming up from the ground, it was falling so hard.

We arrived at a small building on the main road of a tiny town perched on a hillside. Across the street was a post office, a fire station, and an elementary school, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they were all in the same building. Sheets of rain prevented me from taking a closer look.

It was at this community center that we met Mountain Main, a swarthy, wiry Japanese man in his fifties who had grown up deep in the Shikoku Mountain Range and knew everything there was to know about…well, the Shikoku Mountain Range.

Tough as a hunk of beef jerky yet gentle and grandfatherly, Mountain Man shook our hands and told us to get back into the vans – we couldn’t hike in the rain, but dammit, we could drive!

We hopped out at a familiar place to me, it was one of those devilish crossroads that had given me fits in Quest for Castle Mountain. Mountain Man scrambled up the glistening black cliff, and for the first time, I realized that it was a rather unique rock formation with sparse vegetation compared to the rest of the scene.

He told us that it was rock from deep within the Earth, jarred loose and thrust into the Kochi landscape by periodic earthquakes. It was of the right quality for a certain kind of concrete and was beneficial to a few specific types of plants, the names, functions, and even tastes of which he knew by heart.

There was a story for every plant, and I was overwhelmed by the breadth of his knowledge. I blurred my focus and looked at the cliff, and at the dirt hillsides surrounding it – just hills with plants, I thought. If I had had to guess, I would have said that all of the plants were the same.

Not so for Mountain Man. He knew which plants to eat, which not to even touch, and which to strip the bark off of and sell to Japanese paper makers. He was like Willy Wonka and Castle Mountain and the Shikoku Range were his chocolate factory.

His eyes danced and he spoke at a rapid pace, and it was evident that his mind was moving faster than his mouth allowed. I detected traces of a mountain accent and would have loved the chance to hear him and a farmer go at it, though I probably wouldn’t have understood a single word.

We squeezed back into the vans, all of us dripping wet by that time, and the vans strained to carry us up to the peak. We encountered a fallen tree blocking the road, and none of the guys in the group had to be told twice to jump out of the vans and push it away.

Finally, we reached the “parking lot” close to the top, which barely had room for the two vans and called for some creative parking. On the small summit, we looked down at nothing but bright, gray rainclouds.

It was a shame, because Mountain Man knew about the centuries-old castle ruins and abandoned prison visible from the peak. He also told us about fault lines and old city and town boundaries that he could have shown us on a better day.

The geography geek in me really wants to go back and scale Castle Mountain for a look at these things, but I’ve made it up there myself and didn’t see them before, so the budding cyclist in me is refusing.

Mountain Man found some mushrooms and began to explain the ways he could tell if they were tasty or even edible. I was taken with the way he handled them, the pale, white caps flailing about in his brown hands as he raved about the risks and rewards of mushroom hunting.

I’m not sure if I only imagined him taking a bite of one and continuing to educate with probably-poisonous-but-maybe-not-let’s-see mushroom spilling out of his mouth.

It was a great chance to hear a Japanese person speak about a subject other than baseball with real expertise. Rare is the opportunity to take on the challenge of deciphering alien words and concepts in addition to processing information that is new regardless of language or culture.

Since Mountain Man was schooling us all on rocks and plants and using terminology that none of us knew, the foreigner/Japanese lines melted away as much as they ever will. We were all students becoming enlightened and that was what mattered most. I enjoyed that situation very much and should seek out opportunities like it more often.

Noodles and I kept the ball rolling once we returned to the community center and set up the tarps and cooking equipment. Everyone was in a great mood despite the pouring rain, and we were determined to enjoy a cooking lesson from Mountain Man. That made it easy to maintain the flow of conversation and make sure that everyone was a part of it.

At a few times it became necessary for me to say something to Noodles or vice versa, and we surprised ourselves by keeping it in Japanese. That allowed us to be courteous to everyone else without disturbing the speed and momentum of the conversation.

We’ve talked with each other about how much we dislike hearing non-native Japanese speakers speak Japanese. I can’t stand it because very few people pronounce things correctly or attempt to make it sound Japanese. Noodles has an extensive vocabulary and impeccable command of grammar, and he doesn’t like wading in the kiddie pool.

Yet this is the second time that we’ve hit the override button on speaking to each other in Japanese, and each time it made sense as we were in front of other Japanese. If we’re willing to beat our swords into plowshares over this, we actually make a pretty good team – he always knows the word that I’m looking for, and when his textbook-perfect Japanese and quirky delivery is met with quizzical looks, I’m there to help him package it better.

Noodles seems to be the right guy with which to try and let go of another piece of Marco Polo Syndrome. I’m sure that non-Japanese Japanese will always grate on my ears (even my own does, on occasion), but I must admit that I am quick to judge and compare whenever I hear a fellow barbarian speaking in tongues. Life will be better the more I simply smile and move on.

In any event, it was fantastic to meet a whole bunch of young Japanese people. One point on the negative side for Kochi is that, due to its remote location and poor economic performance compared with the rest of the country, it lacks the job opportunities and the night life that attract young people.

Many of them flee to Osaka and Tokyo right out of college, if not high school, and stay there until they have a family to raise or elderly parents to care for. I am always a bit blown away by the seeming explosion of youth that I see when I step off a train in the big cities (even Nagoya). There just aren’t that many twenty-somethings in Kochi.

Most of the participants did not know each other prior to the outdoor event, and so we all spent time telling our stories and the dearth of youth in Kochi came up several times. Many of them said that upon returning they feared they wouldn’t be able to find jobs in Kochi and that all of their other friends were long gone.

I suppose that’s why they showed up on a Sunday morning to mess around in the mountains with a bunch of people they didn’t know. After we made baskets by hand out of kudzu vine, the day ended with us sending each other our cell phone information via amazing laser technology (okay, it’s just infrared rays).

All in all, it was a very fulfilling day. Geology and botany lecture for starters, a huge pot of deer meat stew for the main dish, and a sense of belonging and fellowship on the side.

Dear Lyle

I was taught that there is “power in the pen,” so I like to write letters occasionally and hope that I will do so as long as I’ve got hands. My only frequent pen pal is my sister, although I do fire off letters to former teachers and old friends from time to time.

One thing I like doing is reaching out to someone from my past via pen and paper, if only for the reason that their influence in my life popped into my head that particular day.

I had one of those moments last September when I introduced myself to the students at school for the first time. I decided to use the Rotary Club Hello, which is silly and obnoxious but is a great way to keep everyone attentive through a long string of self-introductions.

It’s very easy – simply wait until the person says his or her name, and then say, “HIIII, BOB!!!” very loudly and deliberately and clap your hands once.

It sounds stupid and it is, but when everyone does it together, it’s a whole lot of fun and it’s difficult to avoid getting the giggles.

The Rotary Club Hello works best when there is one new person who needs to introduce himself to the rest of the group. He expects to have to say his name, where he’s from, his job – the usual stuff. If everyone else is in on the gag, the newbie is starting to say the name of his town when-

“HIIIII, JOE!!!” CLAP

Startling and relaxing at the same time, a great ice-breaker. I highly recommend the Rotary Club Hello and use it often.

The high school seniors enjoyed it and I thought about the man who taught it to me in my freshman year at UC Santa Barbara. Lyle Hillegas was the head advisor of a college church group that I was a part of in that first year.

A bear of a man with a huge, booming baritone voice, glasses with round lenses, and a smart, well-kept mustache, Lyle was quite adept at talking about God and making him sound approachable, real, and modern.

With a smile the width of a watermelon and bright, bold single-colored sweaters, he walked us through the Bible a verse at a time, stopping to tell one of a myriad of personal stories and offering a wealth of insight while using words like MAGNIFICENT!, MARVELOUS!, and BRILLIANT!

When I began to doubt that I had a truly personal relationship God, Lyle was the one person in the group that acknowledged my doubt as real and was willing to talk about it. I drifted from the group, as I couldn’t connect with any of my peers, but I continued to meet with Lyle and listen to what he had to say about God.

One summer, I wasn’t able to keep my key to the piano practice rooms on campus and didn’t have access to a piano or a keyboard. The band I was in, Los Borrachos, had a full schedule of gigs starting in September, and I wasn’t going to be able to play until school started again.

Lyle and his wife opened up their house to me, inviting me to come over and play even when they weren’t home. I rode the bus to their beautiful English house (complete with a thatched roof) on State Street several times that summer, and they dutifully put up with hearing the same songs over and over, or with hearing news ones with mistakes and tinkering.

I didn’t keep in touch with him very much at the end of college, and I left without saying a real goodbye to him. I didn’t contact him once in the ensuing years and only thought about him when I was between pianos or used that Rotary Club Hello.

He was a perfect candidate for a letter from out of the blue! I vowed to write to him about the smashing success of the Hello on the tech school kids, and though there was time, I never set it aside.

Another former teacher popped into my head in mid-July, and the dusty old memo to write to Lyle remained in my head. I thought I would do it in Sapporo, as I would be there for four days, but I spent all of my time writing reports and watching baseball and let the task slip away.

Finally, I sat down last week and wrote letters to Lyle and the former teacher. Lyle’s letter was difficult. I really wanted to keep it to one page, but I wanted to hit several points and close with a bang. That last line was difficult; I didn’t know what to say to a guy who has it all including a fantastic personal relationship with God that he can’t hide from anybody.

I rewrote the letter three times before it was perfect.

I never knew exactly how old Lyle was, but he was an older gentleman when I met him, and it occurred to me that I should probably check to make sure he was still around. I was shocked to find that he was not.

The pain I felt surprised me; I hadn’t tried to contact this man in five years, but learning of his death felt so fresh and close. I became short of breath and shed some tears right there in the teacher’s staff room in front of my computer.

I’ve drifted away from many people in my life, and some of them have died, and I’ve been sad when I heard the news. Yet, since we weren’t close it wasn’t very painful for me; in a messed-up way, it was like they were already gone and I had already dealt with the loss.

(This is a haunting feeling that is at least partly responsible for my decision to attempt to reach out to those I treasure with this website. I want for my loved ones and me to be alive in each other’s lives.)

For some reason, Lyle wasn’t one of those people. I expected him to be there and be the same, steadfast man that I met back in college. I expected to have a relieved chuckle over having to check the obituaries to see if the recipient of my letter would be able to open his mailbox.

Almost immediately, I was aware of the foolishness of my quest for the perfect letter. Not that writing it once would have gotten it there any faster, but that I had agonized over such a futile exercise. If there was one person who could appreciate the innate imperfection of humans, it was Lyle. He would not have cared if there was white out all over the page before him.

I read the words in the linked article above and thought about Lyle as a fellow child of God for the first time. He, too, worked on things that were hilariously imperfect in God’s eyes, yet were pleasing and full of utility. Go back and read the part where Niggle spreads his arms and says, “It’s a gift!” I can see Lyle Hillegas in that story.

Things have been changing ever since I stopped saying “pencils are for people who make mistakes.” Through baseball, poker, and life and my own mistakes, I have learned more about the relationship between effort and results and have slowly eased away from being a perfectionist, though I still slip and fall often.

There are far more important things than attempting to be perfect. Writing letters to our loved ones while they are still around to read them is one of those things:

I sincerely hope that you are well and not in want or need, and that Melissa and the boys are smiling there with you. Thank you for the influence you have had on my life.

Bob Sanchez

Avoiding Crabs

I don’t have a lot of good things to say about my time in Fukushima in 2005. It was the darkest, lowest point in my life and I didn’t have a great attitude about it.

I’m going back this winter to exorcise the demons and, as I tell people in Japanese, finally admit that I was the bad one.

I did receive a great pearl of wisdom from my boss at the time, and it came from a story he told me over some cigars on a Sunday morning.

As a kid in Hawaii, he played baseball well and enjoyed being at the top of the heap. As an older guy, he understood Japanese people very well because he remembered thinking that the world ended and began with his island. A good number of people here think that way, and let’s face it, not all islands are surrounded by water…

He exhibited that mindset in front of an old man, who pulled him aside and pointed at a bucket full of crabs that was settled in the sand a few paces away. The old man and the boy watched as crabs tried to escape from the bucket.

When one crab got a claw over the side of the bucket, the other crabs pulled it back inside. Over and over again this happened, and not one crab would escape.

“That bucket,” said the man, “is the island of Oahu. These boys you hang out with are just like those crabs. Get out of the bucket the second you have a chance.”

It was a little too simple for me to take at face value, but it was easy to imagine and I understood the lesson.

The image reminded me of that analogy of Hell where everyone is sitting at a table with a huge pot of delicious stew in the center. Everyone has a spoon with a long handle. When they try to feed themselves, they find that they can’t get the food to their mouths. They try in vain to feed themselves for eternity.

Heaven, of course, is where everybody turns to the side and feeds the person next to them with the long-handled spoon.

Back to the crabs. That little anecdote stuck with me and I find myself using it often, especially when dealing with negativity. Most recently, I pulled it out at the Kochi Driver’s License Center.

If you grab an International Driver’s License at Triple-A in the United States before you leave, you are allowed to drive in Japan for a full year from your date of entry into the country. I don’t have a car, but I’ve rented them several times in order to get to baseball games that were far enough off the beaten path to justify renting a car instead of taking a train and a cab.

I also love road trips and like to be able to contribute.

When your year is up, you either stop driving, risk getting caught without a license, or have your American license changed to a Japanese license.

This involves the headache of applying for the change at the DMV, which is just a bureaucratic and inefficient here as it is in the States. Then, you must pass a written test and a road test to make the change. Canadians, by the way, just have to fill out an application and pay a fee.

The written test is cake, ten questions that are pretty intuitive and offered in English, no less. The road test is the hard part. It takes place on a closed course that resembles Mario Kart more than it does an actual road.

There are intersections, railway crossings, and S-curves jammed into an area a shade larger than a football field. In the middle sits a four-way intersection with a traffic light, about the only thing on the course that both makes sense and is realistic.

Some intersections are marked with a number, but most are not. There are no buildings, just a couple of walls in one area that are supposed to be visual obstructions.

You must demonstrate proper scanning technique, but on the closed course you have to imagine the danger and check over your shoulder for stuff you know is not there. It’s very easy to miss checking an intersection, for example, because it doesn’t look like a real interesection (no shops or rice fields) and because you know that you’re the only one on the course.

You must drive in a car furnished by the license center for a mere $16 each time you take the test, which costs another $24. Grading is very strict and proctors are picky, and it is not unheard of for people to have to take the test as many as ten times. What a racket.

You are graded from the moment you step on the course, so if you don’t adjust your seat the proper way, you could fail. If your wheels are not close enough to the edge of the road when you make a left turn, you could fail.

It’s a rather silly way to test someone’s actual driving skills, and foreigners and Japanese alike know that, but this system is in place and it’s not going anywhere.

I signed up for a couple of driving classes at a nearby driving school to test out their course and see just how nitpicky they would be. It really helped out, and I went out to the license center certain that I had a chance at passing the first time.

An English teaching buddy was there taking it for the seventh time, and I was the only one there for the first time among five foreigners. A gloomy mood permeated the room, and I tried my best to joke with the other test-takers that I was bright-eyed and bushy-tailed just because it was my first time.

A siren sounded at noon, and we were allowed to walk the course for an hour. That’s actually pretty important because they announce the course in the morning and you have to memorize it as part of your score. So an ideal test should be done in complete silence, no communciation between the proctor and the driver. You only talk to him at the beginning, and again at the end when you “get advice” on your driving.

While walking the course in a big group, the other test-takers started complaining about the ridiculousness of the whole ordeal, shuffling their feet and moving slowly. I was prepared to be frustrated and to take “advice” on something I’ve been doing for a decade with a straight face, but I was not prepared for such negativity.

I didn’t say much, and we were only able to circle the course twice together. The one o’clock siren blew and it was time to take the test. I had drawn the first straw, so I bowed to the proctor and carefully entered the car.

I did everything in the right order – check both ways, open door, get in with a hand on the steering wheel, close the door, lock it, adjust the seat, adjust the mirrors, fasten seatbelt, foot on the brake, start the car, emergency break, put it in drive, signal, check over the shoulders, check the mirrors, ask for permission to drive.

Whew! I got permission and stepped on the gas, but the car didn’t move. I hadn’t started it! I thought I had but the engine didn’t catch on and I couldn’t hear it because of the air conditioning. Nice way to start a perfect test!

I finally got that all sorted out and got onto the course. There’s a section where you have to get up to 25 MPH, which is a lot harder than it sounds because you’re coming out of a curve at less than 10 MPH and you only have about 100 yards to do it in a tin can of a car. Of course remembering to check fake intersections the whole way.

All of the turns and lane changes were on me before I knew it, and when I finally got to a straight section, I forgot where to go next and just went through the intersection with the stoplight. The proctor told me to stop the car and, in an annoyed and condescending voice, told me the proper route.

I continued and handled the S-curve and the crank (a tiny backroad in the shape of a digital five) just fine. I was doing hand-over-hand and was never out of control of the car or the situation.

I took my advice and put a remorseful look on my face, hoping that that might work. It didn’t. I failed for not being close enough to the center line when making right turns, and for forgetting to wait three seconds AFTER signalling to check for a safe lane change. That was the first I had heard of the three-second rule.

The crabs looked happy to welcome me to their bucket. One fellow said, “I know this isn’t a driving test. This is a culture test for me.” But he pressed on complaining about the differences between the Japanese test and the test he took in high school and doomed himself to continue making the same mistakes.

I listened to that on the train the whole way home and encouraged him to be more positive about it, but he wasn’t having it.

I wouldn’t be able to return to the license center for another week due to a scouting trip to Tokyo, but I did my best to use my time there to commit the “great advice” to memory.

Any time I wanted to go to the right, I got my body close to the blind lines on the sidewalk. Every time I wanted to move to the right, I pretended to signal and then WAIT three seconds before checking over my right shoulder. That move was totally against my intuition, because when I drive I throw down the signal and check right away.

It probably looked dumb, but the test is dumb and that’s what I had to do to pass the test. I thought positively about it and dreamed about nailing every turn and checking every intersection.

Finally, Day 2 arrived. Many of the same crabs were there, having failed twice more each in the time I was away. The noon siren wailed, and we were out walking the course. I realized that I could not be with them for an hour the way I had been last time; I had to remain positive.

When we hit the 25 MPH zone, I began running. Running to get out of the bucket, but also to speed things up and properly choreograph the checks I would have to do on that section. It worked. I got around the course three times, planned all checks, signals, and lane changes, and felt prepared for the test.

Once I went to signal and turned on the windshield wipers (the rod is on the opposite side of the steering column here), but it went perfectly otherwise. I didn’t hear the proctor write anything down, and when I went to get my precious advice, it sounded more like a send-off into the world of driving in Japan than tips on how to get a better time on Mario Kart.

Poor Mr. Culture Test failed again, but a couple others passed along with me. We sat through a short lecture, got pictures taken, and escaped with shiny new driver’s licenses. I felt sixteen again and remarked that I didn’t think I would get this day twice.

I strongly believe that mental preparation in Tokyo and maintaining positivity by avoiding the crabs are the reasons I passed the second time. I also strongly believe that I would have been Mr. Culture Test if I had tried to take this test in Fukushima in 2005.

I empathized with him, but I could not make him hear the message. He may still be taking the test.

Life is Hard

During a rain delay at a baseball game in the Tokyo area, I chatted with a professional scout from an MLB club. I don’t recall how the conversation got to the price of living in California and its implications for my generation, but it did and he brought about an interesting characteristic of Japanese people that I had known implicitly until he put it into words.

“They do all of the little things you need to do,” he said. No, he wasn’t talking about having the three-hitter bunt with one out. Rather, it was a remark about what they do in everyday life.

They take trains. They ride bicycles into their 90s. They hang their laundry. They walk from Point A to Points B, C, and beyond. They live in their parents’ houses with their own families to take care of the one parent left behind.

I look around Japan and feel like it’s the 1970s. Our Greatest Generation grew up during the Depression, made sacrifices and won the second World War, and worked to transform the United States into the greatest superpower the world has ever known.

Japan’s Greatest Generation, economically speaking, accomplished this in the 1980s, going from “Made in Japan” crapola to selling more efficient cars and buying up the seven wonders of the world and some golf courses.

Subsequent American generations have enjoyed the wealth and prosperity for sixty years; people in Japan my age look to their parents’ generation the way that I do to my grandparents’. They haven’t enjoyed the lavish lifestyle as long collectively and seem to understand the long climb up better than my American peers and I do.

And so, in some ways they are where I think we were 30-35 years ago. I don’t know for sure because I wasn’t there, but if “I Love the 70s” is at all accurate, I think I have a good picture of what it was like.

Rampant consumerism is just as much a problem here as it is in the States, but it takes a slightly different shape. Here, it’s name brand junk and plastic packaging, and in the U.S. it’s gasoline and living above one’s means.

I think the scout’s comment was geared toward Japan’s apparent solutions to Americans’ current housing and energy problems, though in fact the way that Japanese handle housing and energy has been the way it is for a long time.

Japanese people seem to believe that life is necessarily hard and that there’s nothing much you can do about it. Traveling is going to take a long time and cost a lot of money. Housing is going to be ridiculously expensive and cramped. Getting into the best schools and getting the best jobs will require heinous amounts of study and testing.

Yet they live their lives in ways that allow them to get through it. They do those little things that the scout talked about. They organize drinking parties to help them connect and complain about inconveniences, but wake up the following day ready to combat them with a stiff upper lip.

They watch celebrities make the game show circuit, winning prizes and money Lord knows they don’t need. There is no hope of a regular Joe or Taro getting there, which is what makes game shows so fun for us.

Japanese fans watch baseball players receive huge bouquets of flowers and giant checks (on top of their high salaries) for such mundane events as 1,000 games played or being voted the Best Dad in the Central League.

They sigh and wish that life could be that way, but they are firmly rooted in the reality that it is not. Then they smile and continue to air dry their clothes, make lunch for the octogenarians in the house, or arrive at the meeting 46 minutes early because the next train gets them there 1 minute late. True story.

In short, they are much better at bending over and taking it up the tailpipe than we are, collectively and generally speaking. Of course they know about drying machines and old folks’ homes and believe that public transportation in the countryside is awfully inconvenient, but that’s just the way life is.

When I left the States, the housing bust was in full bloom and the gas crisis was just around the corner. Sometimes I feel like I’m hiding out here in Kochi, with no car, no mortgage, and no debt. If I return, I feel like I’ll be able to put myself in a good position to live within my means and be more tolerant of the inconveniences of that lifestyle thanks to my experiences in Japan and the underlying acceptance that life is tough that I feel from Japanese people.

Unfortunately, it looks like friends and family can’t do much about situations that they’re in. Gas wasn’t four bucks a gallon when they chose to live 15 miles from work. Or when they chose to work 15 miles from home.

I hope the situation improves, but I also hope that people in my generation are able to give up things they don’t need (or avoid having them in the first place) and accept a less convenient lifestyle for better long-term happiness and success. I’m very fortunate to enjoy a great lifestyle for less right now.

An Intervention

The bikers had a mini-intervention with me recently about getting a new bike. Pretty Guy asked when it was happening, and I gave my usual answer: “When I win the lottery.”

Then Larry stepped in. Larry is about fifty years old with a square, tanned face and salt-and-pepper hair. He rides 150 to 200 miles a week and wins races in and out of his age bracket. He looks exactly like a Japanese version of an American biker and family friend named Larry, hence the nickname.

Larry is so much faster than everyone else that I only see him when he is climbing a slope for the second time in order to keep moving on our Sunday rides. I usually say “good morning” to him and he’s out of earshot before I can say “wait for me!”

So I was surprised that he even knew my name, let alone my situation with The Club of bikes. He said that a new bike for me would be an invitation to the front of the pack. Then the others chimed in:

“It’ll change your life!”

“It’ll change your body!”

“YOU will have to pull US up the hills, Mac!”

Before I knew it they were around me in a semi-circle and I blushed at the attention. My man-crush on Larry increased when he picked up a strawberry I had dropped on the ground during the intervention and ate it, stem and all. What a man’s man.

A new road bike is not in the budget as far as I can see, and I’ve learned to use the tools that I have to keep it fun on Sundays. I accept that I have to try harder and work slower than everyone else and make adjustments to narrow the gap and really be part of the club.

I wonder why I’m OK with that while I’m intolerant of anything of the sort in all other areas of life. My computer is slowing down and twice a day I’m ready to chuck it into the canal. Lesson planning at work is still incredibly inefficient and it takes everything I have not to get upset at the silly system.

Could it be that I’m actually HAVING FUN with something? Trying hard and sweating at something without going completely AGGRO about the tiniest setback? Realizing that something isn’t a competition and detaching myself from the results?

I’m saving up for a road bike, but I don’t know if I’ll be able to pull the trigger when the time comes. The situation is too good now and I fear that a faster, better bike may introduce some of the enjoyable, fun-for-everyone elements listed above.

Or perhaps I can grow up and leave those in my dust as I pull the rest of KCTC up and down the mountain roads of Kochi.

Festival of Fools

When there’s a festival within biking distance, KCTC will often ride to it and take a breather at the festival site. The Akiba Festival happens in mid-winter every year out by the Kochi-Ehime border, about 45 miles out of the city.

Four of us left the Bike Shop early and took a direct route while a larger group of gnarly bikers took the scenic route and departed at the regular time. The snails and I reached a dam and the rabbits met us there twenty minutes later.

We crossed over the dam and took the road less traveled. The national highway continued on the opposite side of the chasm, and we tottered along a bumpy one-lane road on our side. I marveled at how peaceful the scene was and nearly forgot that we were headed for a Japanese festival, which is anything but serene.

We passed through a tunnel and BOOM there was the line of cars and tour buses. The climb began and bikes and cars alike struggled up the steep incline that showed no signs of evening out.

There was barely enough room for both bikes and cars, and tree roots caused many bottlenecks. Drivers glared and honked pointlessly as they squeezed past us. Loud noises rile me up, and there’s no quicker way to get me to explode than to ram something obvious into my ears at a high volume.

Add to this mounting frustration the double-digit grade and lack of turnouts, and you have a very unhappy Mac. I had no choice but to keep going because there was no room to stop. Dead tired and about ready to blow my stack at the idiots laying on their horns, a pile of leaves off the road finally offered sweet respite. But not before I emptied my lungs into the gorge.

I peered up the jagged rock before me and saw a parking lot, but I’ve seen enough mountain roads here to know that that was just Lot 1 of countless lots to come, each with about five parking spaces. This precarious, aggravating mountain hell was never going to end!

It finally did, and I’m not sure exactly how. Memories have been erased for my protection, I’m sure. The Bike Shops’ van was parked in Lot 58 or thereabouts, and I slowly changed into streetclothes. My hands were numb and my fingers useless. It’s something I’m coming to hate about the cold – my hands don’t work very well and when my fingers slip or miss whatever I’m aiming for and hit something else, it hurts like hell!

We were so far away from the festival that we had to bike there from the van. I put my gripes about Japanese festivals in my back pocket and rode along, feeling very naked without my helmet. We dodged pedestrians the whole way and passed two or three lines of people waiting for shuttles to take them up the mountain. The number of people, the lack of space, and the steepness of the walls of the canyon made the situation ridiculous.

We left our bikes in a drainage ditch and watched as a procession of colorfully-dressed children walked by. One boy was playing a little theme on a wooden flute and a couple of others beat drums. A man in a red demon mask followed in the back carrying what looked like a gigantic house duster. It was a yellow, 30-foot stick with a bunch of black feathers sticking out of the top, and that stick appeared to be the focal point of this festival.

We followed the kids to a large performance area that looked like it could be terraced rice fields the other 365 days of the year. Each level was PACKED with people and every third person had a camera. I don’t mean cell phones or cute little digital cameras, I mean telescopic lens, crosshares, that KASHINK!!! shutter sound, the works.

Many of these amateur photographers were so focused on their snapshots that they took a step or were pushed right over the edge of the terraces. At least half of the people in the crowd were older than 60, and everyone that took a spill before my eyes belonged to that group.

The men in demon masks started to play catch with the big yellow stick, and when one would catch it and work against the momentum, the stick bent so much that the feather duster touched people in the crowd.

The moves got trickier and one demon tried to make a diving catch of the stick only to miss and go toppling over a terrace edge and into a pile of brush. All of his weight was concentrated over his right shoulder, which popped out of the socket and caused him visible pain.

The crowd laughed. They laughed! They were entertained by this! I held back for a few seconds, thinking that perhaps it was scripted and that a demon in pain was some way to symbolically chase winter away and welcome spring.

The guy didn’t get up and started kicking his legs and pounding on the ground with his good arm. The crowd continued to roar.

That cut me off from reality. I felt like I was watching the whole thing from a theater. What would make people cram themselves into a perilous chasm stacked with shaky, unlevel terrain and laugh at someone else’s misfortune?

Few times in my life had I felt so disconnected from everything in front of me. My body was there, but I was not a part of any of it – the honking, shoving, and elbowing up the mountain. The price-gouging at the food booths. The risking of life and limb for the same photograph you could get on a postcard for 30 yen. Celebrating somebody’s agony.

Mob mentality is not unique to Japan, nor do I think what happened on the hill constituted it. However, I don’t understand why people like being a part of the crowd. I can’t comprehend what is enjoyable about doing what everybody else is doing to the point of personal discomfort and loss of principles.

The scene at this winter festival was chaos and madness. I felt sick to my stomach and wanted to escape, but freedom was not forthcoming; we would have to endure everything again on the way down the mountain.

I have never done well with crowds, but it seems especially bad for me in Japan. I recall sitting in a car in a riverbed waiting two hours to move, let alone get out, after a summer fireworks show in Fukushima. I had to physically rough some people up to escape from a huge music festival in Ibaraki last summer.

What is it about gigantic events that appeals to people? Perhaps it comes from watching hordes of people pass through the gates of Disneyland as a youngster, but I have an extreme aversion to being one of the paying suckers.

Japanese people seem to enjoy this situation by and large, although I know this kind of thing goes on at every rock concert and political demonstration across the globe. However, it’s one thing that will continue to stand between me and total understanding.